These are probably the softest rolls I’ve ever baked. Made with fresh-milled durum and Butler’s Gold WW with a little KA bread flour in the levain.
Milled with my Mockmill 200. The durum for the levain and Tangzhong were used whole, and the main dough flour was sifted with my #30 drum sieve and then re-milled at the finest setting.
I used the water from cooking the potatoes for the main dough. The potatoes were a combo of yellow and blue varieties. I mashed them up with some leftover tzatziki sauce and left the skins on.
I mixed these in my Ankarsrum as always. I finished the bulk in the refrigerator and shaped them cold the next morning. I let them rise for about an hour until they were nice and puffy and baked them with steam at 445 F.
These are perfect for burgers and sandwiches and taste 100% better than any store-bought rolls.
Formula
Levain Directions
Mix all the levain ingredients together for about 1 minute and cover with plastic wrap.
Let it sit at room temperature (I used my proofer set at 75°F) for around 5-7 hours or until the starter has almost doubled. I like to use the starter as soon as it has peaked. You can refrigerate it and use it later or the next day, but it may lose some of its strenght if not used right away.
Tangzhong Directions
Add the water to the durum flour in a small saucepan and cook on medium-low until the starches gelatinize and it starts to thicken. It should be like wallpaper paste when done. Remove from the heat and cool until it’s about room temperature. You can put it in the refrigerator to speed up the process.
Potatoes Directions
Boil the potatoes in salted water and simmer until fork-tender. I left the skins on for more rustic mashed potatoes. Save the potato water and let it cool for use in the main dough. Mash the potatoes, leaving them slightly chunky. I added some leftover Tzatziki sauce to make them creamy. You can add some butter if desired instead, or sour cream or Greek yogurt, or use leftover mashed potatoes. I also used a combination of blue potatoes and golden yellow baby potatoes.
Main Dough Procedure
Note: I use an Ankarsrum Mixer, so my mixing order is slightly different from that of a KitchenAid or other mixer. Add all the water to your mixing bowl except for about 1/4 of the water. Add all the flour to the bowl and mix on low for 1 minute, until it forms a shaggy mass. Cover the mixing bowl and let it rest for 20 minutes. Next, add the levain, Tangzhong, sour cream, olive oil, and most of the remaining water (as needed), and mix on medium-low speed (about speed 4) for around 15 minutes. Let it rest for another 20-25 minutes. Now add the salt, potatoes, and the remaining water if needed, and mix on speed 4 until you have a nicely developed, smooth dough. Don’t be afraid to mix longer. I have found that upfront gluten development is key if you want a nice open crumb.
Remove the dough from the bowl and place it in a lightly oiled bowl, and do several stretch and folds. Make sure the dough is as flat as possible in your bowl/container, and measure the dough in millimeters and take the temperature of the dough. Based on the chart from http://www.thesourdoughjourney.com, determine what % rise you need and make a note. If you have a proofer, decide what temperature you want to set it at and what rise you are aiming for. Since I decided to let the dough finish proofing for bulk in the refrigerator, I let it rise about 10% less. Even if you let it go the full amount, the rolls are forgiving.
Do a set of coil folds after 30 minutes, and a second one 30 minutes later, and then one set of stretch and folds, 30 minutes later. (Note: since this dough was very sticky, I did an extra set of coil folds). It’s important to build the layers of gases by doing the coil folds.
Once the dough reaches the desired bulk rise, refrigerate it overnight.
The next morning, let the dough sit out for an hour or so and then shape into rolls. I made these around 140-150 grams for hamburger bun size. You can go smaller if desired, and you can also shape them into hot dog buns. Brush the rolls with an egg wash. I include a pinch of salt in the egg wash. Sprinkle on your toppings as desired. I used black sesame seeds on some rolls and everything bagel seasoning on the others.
When you are ready to bake, preheat your oven to 475°F an hour beforehand and prepare for steam. Prepare your oven for steam. I have a heavy-duty baking pan on the bottom rack of my oven. I pour 1 cup of boiling water into the pan right after I place the rolls in the oven. I then lower the oven temperature to 445°F and bake until they are nice and brown, and the internal temperature is at least 205 – 210°F.
Take the rolls out of the oven when done and let them cool on a baker’s rack for as long as you can resist.
mookielovesbread 